Thursday, May 16, 2013

Chagos - A Cruisers Paradise

Chagos islands (one of our favourite destinations, accessible only by boat) is a group of 7 atolls, 500 km south of the Maldives archipelago in the Indian Ocean. To be honest, I didn't even know this place existed!

It took us 6 days from South of Addu, Maldives to Chagos due to the strong easterly current pushing us 30-50 degrees off course. We finally arrived on 16th May 2013, 693 nautical miles later and anchored in 25m of water with 80m of chain (S 05.15.328 E 71.46.313) in Peros Banhos atoll which consists of 32 islets. One of the two permitted sites to anchor, the other being Salomon islands (which we did not visit).
 

Did you know? Chagos islands is officially part of the British Indian Ocean Territory (BIOT). It was sad to learn that the British evicted the Chagossians between 1967 and 1973 (to Mauritius & Seychelles) to allow the United States to build a military base on Diego Garcia, the largest of the Chagos islands.

Even though the Chagossians were not indigenous people and were a mix of African, Portuguese, French, Malay and Indian ancestry; Chagos was their home for more than a century and a half. Definitely heart breaking to be kicked out of your own homeland, especially such a beautiful one. 

Issues of compensation and repatriation of the former inhabitants, and the right to return continues in litigation. In November 2016, the British restated that it would not allow the Chagossians to return. If you're interested to learn more, read it on Wikipedia.
 

As such, the islands are uninhabited except for Diego Garcia (a US Military base, where we spent 11 days after getting 'Saved by the U.S Navy') and a lone donkey on Ile du Coin, the largest island in Peros Banhos atoll (if memory serves me right). 

We had 4 wonderful weeks of white sandy beaches and pristine waters all to ourselves. We spotted one other yacht - but only for a day. I guess they thought it was TOO crowded and moved away!

Diving is unfortunately prohibited in the marine protected area but we had loads of fun snorkeling everyday in the clear waters with lots of turtles, fishes and sharks swimming about while hermit and coconut crabs rule the lands. A place we will never forget! 

Hermit Crab
Snorkelling everyday
Work of Art
10kg Grouper
White Sandy Beaches - As Far As The Eyes Can See
Coconut Crab - worlds largest land dwelling arthropod
A species of terrestrial hermit crab, also known as the robber crab or palm thief
It can grow to up to 1 m (3 ft 3 in) in length from leg to leg {holy crab!}
Grouper ;9
Fleshy Coconut - My Fav!
Lots of Reef Sharks around
A Hammerhead shark just below our dinghy!
Exploring the island on Peros Banhos - Lots of mosquitoes!
Frigatebirds of Chagos seem to be attracted to our radar
Seabirds of Chagos - Red Footed Booby?
Alex the Groper/Grouper
Scrolling on the beach
Note: You are required to apply for and receive a Vessel Mooring Permit prior to arrival in Chagos via the BIOT website. It costs £50 GBP per week with a maximum period of 4 weeks (28 days) allowed. {too short!}

Chagos is definitely on our top 5 travel destinations. Goodbye paradise!

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