Showing posts with label Chagos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chagos. Show all posts

Sunday, July 7, 2013

Chagos - Saved by the U.S Navy!

Extra! Extra! Read all about it on this Military website! and our account of what happened below.

CRUISING LOG
 

17th June: Depart Chagos for Mauritius.

19th June: Decide to head to Rodrigues about 200 nautical miles east of Mauritius.

20th June: Approximately 660 nautical miles away from Rodrigues, we heard a loud snap. Forestay at the top of the mast snapped, backstays are loose. It's too far for us to motor all the way to Rodrigues. Decide to head back to Chagos - Diego Garcia which is about 330 nautical miles away northeast.

We contact Major Perry, a BIOT Executive Officer in Chagos to request for assistance, but we were told that they do not have any assets to assist us. We need to get to Peros Banhos at the very least or declare an emergency. 

We have food, water and all on board are healthy. We do not declare an emergency. We start the engine and slowly make our way back. Wind at 18 knots. We hope the mast holds.

22nd June:
The wind dies down. We quickly bring the foresail down and tie it down on deck.

23rd June: The engine fails. We can't propel forward or backwards. Something is broken. Using the storm jib to sail but unable to stay on course. Going at 1-1.2 knots per hour. We are drifting... Hope the wind maintains but direction not to Diego Garcia.

At this point, we are contacting Major Perry of BIOT everyday to report our daily position. We are drifting towards Somalia! All on board still healthy & calm.

25th June: Alex spots a US navy ship on AIS. We radio them for assistance. After several attempts, Capt. Bruce Kreger, USS Seay's civiliian master responds.

We report our situation and crew onboard - an Australian, an American, a Swiss, a Canadian and a Malaysian.

"What can we do to help?", asks Capt. Bruce Kreger.

950ft USNS Seay up ahead
As suggested by our Captain, the USS Seay tries to shield us from the wind so that we can secure the mast. But it did not work. They simply drifted right in front of us!


The photo above shows our crew Amos and I, on each end of the bows, about to put our hands on the 950ft navy ship, to keep Raptor from colliding into the giant. The USS Seay glides right past us, a whirlpool behind them.

"Let's not do that again!", says Capt. Bruce Kreger.

Photo of Raptor from USNS Seay
After some discussion (between USS Seay, the BIOT customs & police), the USS Seay finally agree to tow us into Diego Garcia.

This was not without challenge of course, their smallest towline was huge! We had to find a shackle big enough to fit it. The waters were rough. 

The Indian Ocean is like a washing machine, waves coming from all over the place. We had a hard time getting the dinghy into the water without it smashing onto the boat. 


Rough seas - Getting the towline
Alex and Amos also had a bit of engine trouble on their way to retrieving the towline from USS Seay. It took a while to attach it onto our bridle, by then the towline had somehow got caught under the rudders and was starting to get taut. We immediately radioed USS Seay to release more line. Fortunately Alex was able to untangle it before it caused any damage.

USS Seay towed us for over 20 hours at 5.5-6 knots per hour in 20kts of wind coming from the Southeast. It was a rough ride! The MOST unpleasant ride of my life. I thought Raptor would rip apart each time we went over a wake.

 
Being towed by USNS Seay
About 3 miles from Diego Garcia lagoon, a small craft assigned to Diego Garcia's port operations met us and towed us safely to the pier escorted by armed military speed boats.


At the pier we were searched and sniffed for 2 hours by two dogs to ensure that we did not have any arms or drugs onboard. We were warned not to roam about anywhere else other than our boat and the designated toilets.

Within several hours, a couple of crew members from the USS Seay came by to see how we were doing. They gave us a few bags of coffee, gatorade, rice and biscuits. So thoughtful of them.

Within days, the people on the island warmed up to us. They were kind and friendly. They brought us to the local supermarket for provisions. They helped custom make a new swivel at the top of the forestay and assisted in getting a new damper plate from Singapore. We also made friends on one of the tug boats who were mostly from Indonesia.

Disintegrated damper plate
We stayed in Diego Garcia for 11 days.

We are extremely thankful and grateful to everyone on USS Seay, the BIOT team and the rest of the staff in Diego Garcia for all their help and hospitality. Apparently we were the 2nd yacht to be allowed entry in the last 5 years.

7th July: Depart for Mauritius (again!)

Note: "Seay is one of 12 Navy ships assigned to MSC's Maritime Prepositioning Ship Squadron 2, which ensures the readiness of Navy prepositioning ships in the Pacific. These ships carry afloat prepositioned cargo for various U.S. military services. The squadron's mission is to transport vital equipment and supplies to a designated area of operations in support of combatant commanders worldwide."

Beautiful Diego Garcia
A souvenir on our Passports ; )

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Thursday, May 16, 2013

Chagos - A Cruisers Paradise

Chagos islands (one of our favourite destinations, accessible only by boat) is a group of 7 atolls, 500 km south of the Maldives archipelago in the Indian Ocean. To be honest, I didn't even know this place existed!

It took us 6 days from South of Addu, Maldives to Chagos due to the strong easterly current pushing us 30-50 degrees off course. We finally arrived on 16th May 2013, 693 nautical miles later and anchored in 25m of water with 80m of chain (S 05.15.328 E 71.46.313) in Peros Banhos atoll which consists of 32 islets. One of the two permitted sites to anchor, the other being Salomon islands (which we did not visit).
 

Did you know? Chagos islands is officially part of the British Indian Ocean Territory (BIOT). It was sad to learn that the British evicted the Chagossians between 1967 and 1973 (to Mauritius & Seychelles) to allow the United States to build a military base on Diego Garcia, the largest of the Chagos islands.

Even though the Chagossians were not indigenous people and were a mix of African, Portuguese, French, Malay and Indian ancestry; Chagos was their home for more than a century and a half. Definitely heart breaking to be kicked out of your own homeland, especially such a beautiful one. 

Issues of compensation and repatriation of the former inhabitants, and the right to return continues in litigation. In November 2016, the British restated that it would not allow the Chagossians to return. If you're interested to learn more, read it on Wikipedia.
 

As such, the islands are uninhabited except for Diego Garcia (a US Military base, where we spent 11 days after getting 'Saved by the U.S Navy') and a lone donkey on Ile du Coin, the largest island in Peros Banhos atoll (if memory serves me right). 

We had 4 wonderful weeks of white sandy beaches and pristine waters all to ourselves. We spotted one other yacht - but only for a day. I guess they thought it was TOO crowded and moved away!

Diving is unfortunately prohibited in the marine protected area but we had loads of fun snorkeling everyday in the clear waters with lots of turtles, fishes and sharks swimming about while hermit and coconut crabs rule the lands. A place we will never forget! 

Hermit Crab
Snorkelling everyday
Work of Art
10kg Grouper
White Sandy Beaches - As Far As The Eyes Can See
Coconut Crab - worlds largest land dwelling arthropod
A species of terrestrial hermit crab, also known as the robber crab or palm thief
It can grow to up to 1 m (3 ft 3 in) in length from leg to leg {holy crab!}
Grouper ;9
Fleshy Coconut - My Fav!
Lots of Reef Sharks around
A Hammerhead shark just below our dinghy!
Exploring the island on Peros Banhos - Lots of mosquitoes!
Frigatebirds of Chagos seem to be attracted to our radar
Seabirds of Chagos - Red Footed Booby?
Alex the Groper/Grouper
Scrolling on the beach
Note: You are required to apply for and receive a Vessel Mooring Permit prior to arrival in Chagos via the BIOT website. It costs £50 GBP per week with a maximum period of 4 weeks (28 days) allowed. {too short!}

Chagos is definitely on our top 5 travel destinations. Goodbye paradise!

What's your favourite travel destination?
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