Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Carnival in Tobago, Trinidad & Tobago

We were fortunate to have made it in time for Carnival which was held on the 16th & 17th of February 2015. We heard that it is better to go on Tuesdays, and so we did.

The Trinidad and Tobago Carnival is an annual event held on the Monday and Tuesday before Ash Wednesday. The event is well known for its participants' colourful costumes and exuberant celebrations which begin right after Christmas. Here's some info about its origin..

"Like the cosmopolitan mix of peoples and cultures that shaped the island, Trinidad's Carnival has many influences. The Spanish and English colonial powers, French planters, African slaves, Indian indentured labourers, and the many other ethnic groups that settled here have all left an indelible mark on the festival.

In 1783 the French brought their culture, customs and Carnival, in the form of elaborate masquerade balls, to Trinidad along with African slaves. The period stretching between Christmas and the start of Lent was a time for feasting, fancy dress balls and celebration for both the French and British.

Banned from the festivities, slaves in the barrack yards would hold their own celebrations mimicking their masters' behaviour while incorporating rituals and folklore. Once slavery was abolished in 1838, the freed Africans took their Carnival to the streets and, as each new immigrant population entered Trinidad, a new flavour was added to the festivities. Today, our diverse culture has influenced the music, food and traditions of Carnival."
 
We thoroughly enjoyed watching the people dance in their colourful costumes on the street. The energy was fantastic! Even though we heard its not as elaborate as the one in Trinidad... it was a great experience for us nonetheless.
 
Carnival Time
King George and I









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Friday, February 13, 2015

Tobago, Trinidad & Tobago

Beautiful sunset from our anchorage in Store Bay
We finally made it to the Caribbean! 

Trinidad and Tobago is the southern most island in the Caribbean, situated northeast of Venezuela (just 11km away). It was a 3 day sail from British Guyana. We departed at the river mouth of Baganara on the 10th February 2015 and arrived on the eve of Valentine's day.

Our initial heading was towards Chaguaramas, Trinidad. However, Alex calculated that if we stayed our course, we would arrive after dark. It would be too risky for us (a single prop) to maneuver into an unfamiliar port in the middle of the night. We would also have to deal with customs and immigration after working hours which would most likely incur overtime charges.

Without much deliberation, we changed our course and headed into Tobago instead. We arrived in Scarborough at 15:30pm. By the time we set our anchor, prepared the dinghy and found our way to Customs and Immigration's office, it was closed! Even though we arrived before closing time. After many attempts to contact the officers, we were advised to come in the next morning.

The anchorage we were in (opposite the Port) was not a good one. It was too rolly and we weren't sure if the anchor would hold overnight. We moved again after speaking to some locals and a yacht nearby, and picked up a mooring (N 11.10.756 W 60.44.150) beside it to stay the night.

The next day, we headed off to the Customs and Immigration's office as advised. Surprise, surprise, it's not open (again)! We waited 2 hours outside the door, and finally an officer rocks up at 11:00am. We were not happy cruisers!

After clearing in, we moved to Store Bay (or Milford Bay on the charts) and picked up a mooring (N 11.09.497 W 60.50.501). It was a much better anchorage except for the occasional jet skiers that come way too close creatng wakes that makes us feel like we're back in the big ocean. On the bright side, we were able to get free Wifi on board. So, yay!


View of Raptor from the beach
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Thursday, February 5, 2015

Essequibo River, British Guyana

Raptor in Essequibo River
Guyana is the only South American nation in which English is the official language. It is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the north, Brazil to the south and southwest, Suriname to the east and Venezuela to the west.

Essequibo is the largest river in Guyana and the largest river between the Amazon and Orinoco. It flows from the Acarai Mountains near the Brazil-Guyana border 1,010km northward through forest and savannah into the Atlantic Ocean.

We set off from Domburg, Suriname on 3rd February 2012 and anchored opposite Bartica (N 06.23.964 W 58.37.037) the next day. It was approximately 265 nautical mile ride. We landed the dinghy at Cool Breeze, cleared in and spent a day exploring the town

Streets in Bartica
Street near Cool Breeze
Bartica occupies a unique natural location in the north-central Guyana where the mighty Essequibo, Mazaruni and Cuyuni rivers meet. Considered the "Gateway to the Interior". 

Even though this is the launching point for Guyana's diamond and gold miners, the place is not well developed and a little disappointing to find garbage everywhere. 

It's unparalleled natural location is one of the most intriguing sites for a town. The name 'Bartica' comes from an Amerindian word meaning 'red earth', is abundant in the area.
 
What about them?
Unfortunately garbage everywhere
We departed Bartica for Baganara Resort on 6th February. We motored 15 nautical miles up the river.

Here are some photos of the river on our way to Baganara Island (approx. 40nm inland). Apparently this about as far up the river we can go with a sailing vessel. Smaller & more powerful boats are needed to go further up through the rapids.

The rocks looks like a huge crocodile
A tiny island in the middle of the river with a bridge between the private property and an overgrown shipwreck on the right
It's calm in the river
Reflections
Baganara Resort
Baganara Island Resort on Baganara island (about 40nm up the Essequibo river). A peaceful place away from the city with nature all around. Had fun playing pool and table tennis all day. There are hammocks, chess board, frisbees, football, volleyball & kayaks too. All these to ourselves! 

I guess we came at a good time (off peak season). Even though the entrance to this river was pretty tricky with all the rocks, wrecks, stakes, shallow areas and limited charts, its definitely a nice place for some R&R. 

We anchored just off the Resort (N 06.20.027 W 58.35.545) for 4 days.
Our crew David
Monkeying around
Red Howler Monkey
A little settlement by the river
Exploring in the dinghy
Mangroves
Beautiful isn't it?

We departed Baganara for Bartica on the 10th February to clear out, and anchored 18 nautical miles (N 06.48.169 W 58.30.562) from the river mouth for the night. We headed off for Trinidad and Tobago the next day.
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Sunday, February 1, 2015

Friends in Suriname

Spent a day with our new friend Anthony, nephew of our friend Chunny whom we met in French Guyana. He brought us to visit his family's farm in Commewijne which was lovely. So many fruits & veggies. We had such a great time! Thanks Anthony!


Not sure what these are but aren't they pretty?
Capsicums
Four Angle Bean
Tomatoes
Avocados
We also met up with Philippe and Chunny (our overlander friends) and finally had a tour of their Big Green Motorhome, the one in which they will be travelling South America with.


Motorhome
Phillipe, Chunny, David, Alex and I
Dinner at a Chinese Restaurant in town. I wish I could remember the name of it now. 

Dinner with Philippe, Chunny, Anthony & David
The day before we departed Suriname, we invited our friends aboard Raptor for dinner.

See you again!

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